Day 4- Elm Campsite to Holywell 16 miles

  A good day today, started out about half six and enjoyed a considerably quicker pace than before. The first mile or so is on roads, no pavement and on sections quite narrow. Once on the coast, however, it was back to the countryside and my novel (both earphones in). I woke expecting rain and dressed in all my rain gear, wrapping my backpack and pulling on my rain trousers. Yet, as normal, fears were not realised and no rain came. Showers overnight and a few light sprays here and there but that's it. The wind was weaker and the temperature was perfect for walking, though the sky looked bleak.

  My original destination today was Perranporth but since I'd made such good progress yesterday I checked online and set my sites on Holywell instead, a few miles further down the beach. I joined the coastal path at Porthtowan and was greeted with a nice steap climb to Wheal Charlotte Moor Tip before decending down soon after into Chapel Cove. I'm still not good at the climbs but they are affecting me less afterwards. I do feel my fitness growing and leaving camp so early gives me so much time to play with.

Tubby's Head

  The path was easy walking in the end with pleasant sites and I reached Perranporth with aching legs and back but relatively fresh legs. Perranporth is a seaside town aimed to attract tourists, something which almost the entirety of Cornwall seems to be, and stands a little empty without the summer hords. I was tempted by a greasy spoons but shied away since there was little space for me and my bag. I ended up wondering round for too long and giving up, settling for a ice scream parlour with lots of plug sockets. My iPod had run out of power and the characters were in a tight spot. I wanted to know what was going to happen to them.

Perran Beach  from Logger Point

  The next stretch is two or so miles along Perran Beach and up into the hills around a military training base. Along this beach I met the first long distance female hiker walking by herself. I like her immediately for that alone. We had a quick talk and parted ways.
  Confusion at the campsite as reception was closed and there was no signal for the phone. I think I had the wrong site completely as when she turned up she informed that camping hadn't opened yet. She saw the dismay in my face and took mercy, letting my stay for £3 and use the public toilets round the corner.

  Once set up I took myself to the first pub I'd seen in the town, St Piran's Inn, which was fine but cast quickly into shade when I moved on to Treguth Inn, which had so much more character and  (even better at times) Wi-Fi.

Day 3 - St Ives to Elm Farm 20 miles

St Ives in the early morning sun from Ayr campsite

 Knowing I didn't really fancy wild camping tonight I decided to forge on past my original destination, Portreath, and camp at Elm Farm Campsite nearer Redruth instead. This would mean that the day might be closer 20 miles that 17. That in mind I woke at 5:30, leaving camp at 7.

Looking back towards St Ives on Porthminster Beach

  The guide book described this section as ugly, and I daresay it's far from glorious but I was loving it. With cement or dirt paths underfoot I was chopping away the miles with no effort at all. I reached Hayle by half nine, six miles already done.
  From there I forged further inland, forced to walk on a lot of roads but enjoying the ease of it for a day. Then over the fields along the Red River Valley Nature Reserve and through Tehidy woods. Both were pleasant walks if unspectacular.
  I decided it was time for a change in author and turned on a Lee Child's novel, never having tried him before. Quickly engrossed I happily marched the next three or do hours away till a reached Elm Campsite.

Elm Farm campsite

  Elm campsite is a gem ran by a cheerful looking couple who also rent out bikes. It's an eco campsite with composting loos. No cars, showers in outdoors sheds and a flat sheltered lawn. I think it's fabulous.
  Today was forgettable in many ways but I'm starting to feel strong and relax more into the walk. Things are aching but less than I thought they would. I'll head back to the coast tomorrow but will be less afraid of finding alternatively routes along the way.