Day 3 - St Ives to Elm Farm 20 miles

St Ives in the early morning sun from Ayr campsite

 Knowing I didn't really fancy wild camping tonight I decided to forge on past my original destination, Portreath, and camp at Elm Farm Campsite nearer Redruth instead. This would mean that the day might be closer 20 miles that 17. That in mind I woke at 5:30, leaving camp at 7.

Looking back towards St Ives on Porthminster Beach

  The guide book described this section as ugly, and I daresay it's far from glorious but I was loving it. With cement or dirt paths underfoot I was chopping away the miles with no effort at all. I reached Hayle by half nine, six miles already done.
  From there I forged further inland, forced to walk on a lot of roads but enjoying the ease of it for a day. Then over the fields along the Red River Valley Nature Reserve and through Tehidy woods. Both were pleasant walks if unspectacular.
  I decided it was time for a change in author and turned on a Lee Child's novel, never having tried him before. Quickly engrossed I happily marched the next three or do hours away till a reached Elm Campsite.

Elm Farm campsite

  Elm campsite is a gem ran by a cheerful looking couple who also rent out bikes. It's an eco campsite with composting loos. No cars, showers in outdoors sheds and a flat sheltered lawn. I think it's fabulous.
  Today was forgettable in many ways but I'm starting to feel strong and relax more into the walk. Things are aching but less than I thought they would. I'll head back to the coast tomorrow but will be less afraid of finding alternatively routes along the way.

Day 2 Pendeen to St Ives

  I woke up at sixish and I was ready to go by seven fifteen. The wind was still fierce but manageable, my wonderful tent had survived the night. I suspect at some point on this trip it will break or tear, it'll  be like losing a friend.

Cliff edge near Zennor Head

  Made my way across the fields back to the shore line, my heart already sinking as I could see my path descending to the sea before crossing a steam and going straight back up. Still with the eagerness of someone only on her second day I marched on. The climb left be gasping, I'm just not fit enough for them and I was forced to stop a number of times, pretending to enjoy the view and watching out for any other hikers who might shame me.

  The weather was forever changing as rain clouds were blown through, after the downfall the sun and wind drying everything quickly. The more tired I got the more the wind became a nuisance , knocking me off balance continually. If nothing else the day showed just how ridiculous people that climb Everest and the Eiga are.
  Anyway back to the complaining. The entire day consists of descending into galleys and the climbing out. Great views but hard terrain and no change to get a rhythm. I was comforted to discover that the guide book considers this section one of the toughest of the Southwest Coastal Path, so maybe I'm not such a wimp after all.

 I did enjoy some of the views, although usually the ones across a short flat patch, mainly I found it all frustrating. The Pennine Way has hard climbs, larger than today's but after an hour or two of hard walking your on top, so you take your medicine and soldier down. There's none of this up down up down up down thing. Bloody nature.
  It took nearly then hours to get to St Ives, my walking pace mostly 3km an hour. There was one section where I felt completely stuck. Massive boulders blocked the track. Without a backpack it might have been fun but while carrying 19 KG it was no picnic.
    I ducked gratefully inland at River Cover and walked the last three or four miles across the fields. It was wonderful. I suddenly found I could walk again. My legs felt like led while climbing but on the flat they were fine. I past Trevalgan touring park (who'd kindly offered me a free pitch in support of the charity) and walked on to Ayr Campsite. This one is a lot closer to the town,  overlooking the harbor about fifteen minutes from the center.
  It's a wonderful campsite. Special area for backpackers, great shower rooms and toilets and cafe with a pool and lounging rooms. Everything is cared for and warm. The staff were friendly and even the wind couldn't stop it from been a very cosy night.

Ayr Campsite looking over St Ives 

  Popped into the town to buy a few snacks for tomorrow, and something healthy for dinner- ended up with chips from a Fish and chip shop called the Albatross. Gentleman who served me did however sponsor me £5. I think I might walk inland tomorrow and avoid the coast as much as I can.