P.W. Day12- Knarsdale to Greenhead 11miles
This should be another relatively easy day. It does include a rather
harsh section of unpaved moorland which the guide book describes as the
"misery that dares call itself Blenkinsopp Common" and the "more arable
muck of the Hartley Nurn floodplain" which seems like an "expedition
over a country abandoned my man and beast" (Trailblazer- Pennine Way 3rd
Edition). After my pleasant experience descending from Tan Hill I was
very tempted to trek around on the roads, I even worked out the precise
route I'd take.
Finding the Pennine Way from the campsite turned out to be easier than
I'd expected. A simple series of farm fields and moor land. The path
follows the wall most of the way. Its not a memorable section and until
I crossed into the dreaded moor I can't remember much of it at all.
The moor itself came after a run down house with two rather shady
characters in the back yard. another style and you're in a very soggy
boggy field. Its not easy walking but I'd learned the tricks by this
point and a light foot. The fence I'd be following across the marsh was a
tad elusive, I found myself getting deeper and deeper into swamp land.
In sections my boots were as deep as a foot under water but my ankles
stayed strong with the bandage and as soon as I found the fence the
course was simple.
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Holmhead Guest House |
Black Hill is
invisible to the eye and the decent to the ruin is quick if unmarked and
after scaling a fence or two found the correct route. The A 69 is a
little scary, very wide and very busy and fast. It took a while to find a
section I felt comfortable crossing. Then up the hill again, round and
across the golf course and up the stream to Greenhead in time for tea
and toast.
With the
weather forecast to be dire I'd treated myself for the first time to a
bunk house. I phoned ahead to book just in case but it turned out that I
had the entire room to myself as did the Italian hiker next door. We
took each other to the Greenhead Hotel and had dinner speaking a mix of
Italian and English. Once back in my room I remember lying in bed
shocked at how luxurious it all was after two weeks of sleeping in my
tent. Took me twice as long to go to sleep than any other night on the
trail.
The lack of photographs for this section is that the camera was in my bag due to the weather.
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