Day 47- Bellingham to Byrness 14 Miles

  This is my second time on the Pennine Way I find myself comparing the experiences closely. Today, two years ago, I only got through today by finding a really exciting Dick Francis. The guide suggests this stretch as a doddle but there are a few steep steep areas and areas of boggy ground. Moreover a lot of today is through logging areas and extremely dull.
  I was set to go by eight and began by heading north out of town. The lane up White Hill was heralded by a dog's bark but as the wall rose and I fell out of view the dog lost interest. From the farm I crossed a series of fields, passed bunches of trees and onto open moor land and School Crag. GPS led me astray again, and instead of trusting the well trodden path I headed across land. Even when I was directly on top of the green digital line the more I was actually stood on lay untouched by boots of any kind. I ate a lot of Pringles in this field.

Padon Hill

  Once I was passed Hareshaw House things got simpler, and although I was nervous of the cows I reached the B6320 untrampled. A long procession of bicycles whizzed path, as well as support cars. I ducked through a gap and wondered up to Grouse Butts. I've no idea how I worked this route out on paper maps, having relied solely on my phone I felt blind without its help. Whitley Pike is somewhat unremarklable and another concern was pressing me forward. I really needed the loo.

Whitley Pike

  On the way up Brownrigg Head I met another Pennine Way hiker, a girl walking alone. and just at the top of the hill I met yet another sole female hiker. I love talking to them, the conversation is so different to when I talk to male actors. There is no comparison of mileage, or competitiveness, just compliments and commiserations. I warned them about the slabs before Hadrian's Wall and we parted ways.

  I reached Byrness Border Campsite at half three. The lady couldn't find a reference to my walk in her booking sheet but trusted me and allowed me to keep my free pitch. She was lovely and introduced me to their pet donkeys. Since the sun was still up and bright I hand washed an outfit, underwear and a few socks before hanging them out to dry on the barbed wire behind my tent. On the way to the showers I saw a couple hike in with a dog, both carrying rucksacks. Finally some End to End hikers!! I spent a very enjoyable evening talking to them. Both retired and experienced hikers, walking it to raise funds for guide dog training.

 

Day 46- Haltwhistle to Belligham 23 Miles

 My fears over waking those near me proved unfounded as the couple beside me woke beforehand and were also packing up. By eight I was set to go and made the brief climb back up to the lane heading into Haltwhistle. A farmer was herding the sheep in the nearby field as I passed, one dog running alongside while the other stood balanced on the boot of the quad.

Bellister Castle in Haltwhistle

  Walking along the roads I had my usual healthy breakfast of bourbon biscuits and listened to loud
music in the hope that the sugar and the beat would energize me to tackle what would be a hard days walk. Bellingham is 23 miles from the campsite, mainly through logging forests but also across boggy moors and a few miles along Hadrian's Wall. I remember, last time I walked this stretch I reached camp quite exhausted just after dark around 10pm.

Leaving Haltwhistle behind

Hadrian's Wall

  Once through Haltwhistle, and passed all the kids heading to school, I made my way into the hills to cover the few miles to Hadrian's wall. The path is a little deceptive and I wondered in zigzags staring at my GPS location. I was listening to a new author called Nevada Barr, first person narrative crime fiction, centered around an outdoor ranger in the American Rockies. Narrative voice far too girly for me, lots of rhetorical questions and thought processes.
  Once I reached Twice Brewed I popped into the tourist information center for a cup of tea and a change to quickly boost my Ipod battery. They were showing a documentary on boat building in the region and I enjoyed a brief break watching it and writing postcards.
  I forgot just how pretty Hadrian's Wall was, hard work and crowded but really pretty.  Having joined it only at Twice Brewed it was also a very short visit and within an hour I was already descending down to Ridley Common, past Broomless Lough and into the woods. Since the rain had been falling over the last week the path slabs were under a few inches of water. I accidentally stepped off one and found my food sinking to the thy into water bog. The foot didn't even hit the bottom. With my balance already committed I fell fully on my left knee and the backpack did the rest of the work landing me straight on my face.

  I lay face down for a few seconds in several inches of water as my body checked itself over. Once my inventory was completed I found the rucksack weighed considerably more now that it was mostly
against my neck, and as my foot had been underwater for several seconds I could feel water entering my boot. A lovely situation. I prioritized getting my foot out the water and crawling to my feet shrugged the rucksack back into place and glanced behind me towards Hadrian's Wall to see if anyone witnessed my performance.
  Using my poles as guides I made painfully slow progress across the path, constantly checking to see the exact position of the slabs and avoid another fall. My trusty Keen boots seemed to have kept the majority of the water out and while my trousers were muddy all the way to the upper thy nothing was hurt. For a second, when I fell, I saw images of smashed knees so I considered myself lucky.
  The rest of the day was uneventful and a little dull. I diverted from the Pennine Way a little and instead of struggling across Haughton Common I stuck to the logging paths. I was still left with a rather deep and long puddle to cross before Shepherdshield but on the whole the track was dry and clear. Once I left the shades of the forest I took the shortest and easiest route over the farm land into Bellingham.

Last stretch towards Bellingham

  Nearer the town I talked to a gentleman for a while, 50 year old cyclist here for a weekend race. I felt a little uneasy about him but we parted ways soon enough and I made my way to the Co-Op and then camp. A noticed another hikers tent but saw no sign of the occupants. Made myself a rather good chorizo noodle soup thing and read a little of the book, although it I were being honest this was mainly to impress the very attractive camper who past me. He also sat outside him tent and read, not that I watching. No car but the chair suggested he'd not be walking along with me tomorrow. Quite a pity.

Day 45- Garrigill to Haltwhistle 16 Miles

   Today's walk was a pleasant change of pace from yesterday's trial. Instead of sticking strictly to the Pennine Way, through Slaggyford and over Hartlayburn Common to Greenhead, I joined the South Tynedale Railway trail at Alston and struck to it for the rest of the day. This meant flat walking and clear tracks, and the lack of navigation would allow me to tune out completely.   

River South Tyne before Alston

  The first stretch of today is along the banks of River South Tyne for five miles although it feels longer. The path switches sides and meanders through farm land and through styles and fences galore. Since I'd had no food for breakfast I reached it hungry and in need of a sugar fix. I ended up in the same cafe I'd gone to on my last Pennine Way jaunt and it didn't impress me any more than it had last time. That said I left with my hunger abated and wondered round town. First stop was to the outdoor shop to procure another backpack cover, I also bought a pair of glove liners to help keep my hands warm on cold nights.

  A few shops later my backpack was heavy again but I had enough food for a couple of days and felt a little less stressed. The beginning of the South Tynedale Railway walk goes along a tourist attraction with working stream engines pulling carriages back and fourth. The path is stoned with the same stones as the tracks and made for uncomfortable walking. I hoped it would change at some point to flat dirt and give my souls a rest. 

  After a couple of miles and a few quaint stations I past a digger and the path dissolved into an overgrown trench whose flatness was the only indication that a train track was ever there. This line was constructed during the C19th to transport lead, coal and limestone from the Alston mine fields to Halwhistle and then east towards Newcastle. It was also vital to the communities isolated in rural parts of England during the winter months. wit the whole line been shut in 1976 the path and the Lambley Viaduct slowly fell to pieces. It was only in 1995 that the Lambley Viaduct was restored and reopened. It's the highlight of the day, tall and elegant it's everything you associate with the romance of the railway and walking over it you're treated with 17 metre high views of the river and land below.  The track continues straight and true, once in a while a crumbling station is visible but mostly it's just a pretty path between small towns.

 

   Although only 16 or so miles I was happy to reach camp and pitch at Haltwhistle Camping and Caravanning Club Site. The campsite was a lovely one and I found Master and Commander in their second hand bookshelf. Buying it, and some rice and chocolate, I settled in. They placed all the tents close together but that was my only complaint and while my neighbors snore was quite impressive my earphones preserved my sleep.

Haltwhistle Camping and Caravanning Club Site

Day 44- Dufton to Garrigill 16 miles

From the very first day of my walking Land's End to John o'Groats I'd dreaded today's challenge. Having had such great weather over the course of the last week my trepidation had lifted. In good weather you're meant to see a long way from the top of Cross Fell.It is the highest point of both the Pennine Way and the End to End and you'd have earned it having climbed from 160 meters to just under 900 within 9 miles on open moor land.

  I woke to rain and as I climbed out of Dufton along Hurning Lane was forced to concede that the weather forecast was correct and I'd be forced to tackle rain, mist and winds- just like last time. The climb wasn't so bad, I trudged very slowly but with no breaks and was shocked at how much easier I found it. As I began to get higher the wind picked up and visibility dropped to five or so meters. With my boots on my back dry and protected my feet remained exposed in my sandals. For a large part of today my feet were deep in water and bogs and it was inevitable that I slipped and fell flat on my face at least once. When it did happen it was dramatic but quick and relatively painless. My mood was more affected than anything else, and my left half was now covered in mud. At some point the wind had also ripped away my sack rain cover and my once protected boots were steadily been soaked.

   By the time I skidded down Cross Fell I was shacking with cold, soaking wet and desperate to escape the winds. I reached Greg's Hut and struggled to write in the blog book because my hands were too cold. In this shelter I cooked myself some soup and dipped my last two wraps into it. Food helped a lot and I left feeling considerably warmed. I can imaging Greg's Hut having saved a few lives, it's still high at 700 meters but sheltered from the wind has a wonderfully welcoming feel. Other hikers have left a mountain of things, soups, lighters and snacks. The path down is easy enough. The first time I did it, two years ago, it shredded what was left of my feet but they've toughened over the last few weeks. In the Hut I changed into my boots.

  At reaching Garrigill my earlier weariness had lifted and I was tempted to walk on but with no certain destination and a free camp behind the hall I dropped my stuff and pitched my tent. By this point I was out of food except for a packet of instant mash, the pub wasn't open and the post office was also shut when I reached town at 4:30. The only upside to a far too Spartan night was a basket of moisturizers in the ladies toilets- although I'm unsure if they had any affect when layered over several millimeters of grime.

Day 39 & 40 - Horton-in-Ribblesdale to Hawes 14 miles

Cam High Road, looking back at Yorkshire's Three Peaks

  Straight forward day walking along the old Roman Road Cam High Road across the Yorkshire Dales National Park up to Cam Fell. You climb for most of the day but only 560 metres in total before descending into Hawes and rest. I enjoyed my carrot cake from yesterday's stay at Horton's Women's Centre as well as jam and peanut sandwiches I'd made for lunch.

  I met two of the ladies I'd met last night half way up. They were cycling the Pennine Bridle Way and dismounting accompanied me for a while. Also further on I met for female hikers on a weeks worth of walking.

Looking across Hawes towards Great Shunner Fell

  Hawes is lovely and full of cafes and shops as well as the great Bainbridge Ings Caravan and Camping Site with cheap laundry and open well groomed fields. The only downside was the campers who parked beside me talked till late. Not the worse crime in the world but I learned way more about them then I'd wished to.


Day  40- Day off in Hawes
  Wrote up blog on the morning while waiting for family to arrive. Spent a pleasant day wondering around town with them before lounging at the campsite in the evening.

Day 37- Cowling to Malhem 18.5 miles

Clough Head Hill

   You start the day with a stiff climb out of Cowling before descending back down into Lothersdale. Over the hills once again you

reach open moor land and pleasant waking. From Thorton in Crave you walk along the canals until you reach East Morton, then across some farmer's field to Gargrave. In one of these fields, while singing along to Lion King, I bumped into another Pennine Way walker. We joined forces till Gargrave. He'd covered 30 miles yesterday which was impressive, and although he was having his things ferried ahead that's daunting millage. A baby calf, just before the town, got spooked and ran ahead of us making it increasingly difficult not to get inbetween it and the mother. In this case however the mother really didn't care and remained lounging on the grass until the calf got the message and stopped running  along the track.

Ex multi end to end cyclist

  Crossing the canal from Gargrave I stopped and ate a sandwich on a bench, soon to be joined by a chatty 60 year old cyclist. I'd have thought him fifty at most but he happily informed me he'd cycled Land's End to John o'Groats for the third time on his 60th and was currently looking for advice for next year when he was planning to walk Santiago.

River Aire towards Malhem

Malhem Cove in the distance

  I reached Malham after a long 5 miles and found the field full of students walking the Pennine Way as part of a course. Keeping my distance I set up pitch and since it was incredibly sunny hand-washed and hung up to dry an outfit for tomorrow. A laundry stop is now badly needed.

Day 33 - Edale to Crowden 17.5 miles

View from Kinder Scout

 I set off early, leaving camp by seven in the hope of leaving the hords of Saturday walkers behind. The short walk to Upper Booth was a great warm up before the dreaded Jocob's Ladder. The last time I'd walked this I'd harboured serious thoughts about settling half way up in order to avoid climbing any further. It was however a nice way of setting just how much fitter I was.

  By the time I reached it there were a few walkers behind me which helped. I stopped for a few minutes half way up and that was it. Thats a massive difference to a few months ago but I didn't feel fitter, the hill just didn't seem as steep.

Edale Rocks ( photo from last time I walked the Pennines)

  The wind was fierce and once I'd past Edale Rocks and Kinder Low I was high enough to receive it's full force. On several occasions I was forced to dig in my heels and lean on my sticks to stop from been blown over. Kinder Downfall was an experience, the wind was blowing up and against the rivers flow. Great torrents were been lifted into the air and back. By the time I got to the other side and out of its reach I was soaked and cold.

Finally I reached Jacob's Decent and on Mount Hill joined the Snake Path towards to A57. The wind lessened somewhat and for the first time I experiences Bleaklow Head in sunlight,  on previous visits it had been firmly uncased in fog or rain. I'd been trying to listen to the tennis on my phone but signal came and went, I heard and cheered him winning the fourth but missed most of the fifth which was probably good forReservoir.

Torside Reservoir- photo from previous walk

  Then there's only Torside Clough to descent which is considerably easier and pleasant in the sun. Torside Reservoir was clear in the distance, as was Crowden across the waters. An hour later and I was in camp.
  Crowden campsite is one of the nicest, the field is flat with trees in the middle to break up the view and give each camper a fair amount of privacy. The lady was also lovely and treated me to a snack in support of my venture. Soon after that mum arrived to spend the night, something I'd been looking forward to. She took me out to dinner and we had wine after in the tent, a lovely treat.

Day 32- Pomeroy to Edale 16 miles

Looking down into Hope Valley from Hollins Cross

  With the planned route abandoned I spent some time pouring over the map before settling for a route. I needed to find a town before Edale in order to buy food as well as withdraw some money. Having been through nothing but hamlets since Uttoxeter I had nothing to eat today and little money, moreover the Pennine Way would not go through any town of note for days. In the end I diverted so I'd go through Castleton. Most of the day would be spent on either the Midshire Way, Limestone Way or the Pennine Bridleway; at times you're walking two at the same time.
  I started out well, excited about getting to Edale and surrendering myself to another long distance trail for the next two or so weeks. Within the first hour I found a small campsite shop in Blackwell where I bought some chocolate bars, biscuits and an icecream. After another brief climb you descend into Miller's Dale Nature Reserve.

Lime Kiln

Here you join the Monsal Trail for a short period through a rather wonderful valley showing the history of kiln burning and lime production that would have dominated the area between 1880-1944. The path goes along the disused Ashbourne to Buxton railway track, now converted to a walking and cycling path.
  After barely a mile you head north, out of the valley, and join the Pennine Bridleway again through farm lands and small country lanes. I passed yet another group of Duke of Edinburgh students bent over their map while half lay collapsed on the side of the road. I'd been climbing steadily for some time, easy enough walking but it was with some relief that I started to descend into Carleton. It was already 1:00 which meant I had, if the match started on schedule, only an hour to get to Edale, set pitch and find a pub who'd show the tennis. Murray vs Djokovic in the French Open is worth rushing for.

Path down to Castleton

  The path to Castleton is horribly steep and half under water. A shallow steam flows down over it, not deep enough to get your feet wet, but I was still left worried about slipping. The rocks looming on either side of me were imposing structures, tall rock faces housing ruins and caves.
  The town itself was packed with tourists but held the necessary post office for money withdraw and general shop for food. I bought myself a cold spinach and ricotta

Climbing up Hollins Cross

pie for lunch before heading further north towards Edale, up over Hollins Cross. This path had been used to move deceased Edale inhabitants over the mountain to the Castleton graveyard, no mean feet when at its height the mountains 426 metres tall. I struggled up it and down with only my own carcass inn tow. Over in Edale I set up camp within ten minutes and walked the two or so hundred metres up hill to the Old Nags Head which not only had good WiFi but sky TV. Once a large

Old Nags Head, official start of the Pennine Way

group of male walkers cleared out I had a perfect spot to watch my boy fight. The weather delay meant the match would be finished tomorrow but it

Bit of Hebrew on a post in Edale, any one translate?

was still a treat and I felt inspired. Wimbledon will be fun, I'll have to schedule my walking to Murray's matches, won't miss this years tournament.

Day 31- Swinscoe to Pomeroy 14 miles

  Today was wonderfully simple, I changed the route completely last night after deciding to walk all of the Pennine Way. It's the Pennine way's 50th anniversary and it would only involve one more day for me walk it's entirety.
  The first part of the day is a walk through field, down a few lanes until you reach Tissington Hall. The road goes through the grounds and walking it I soon found I was been tailed by a herd of bored cows. I sensed no aggression so carried on, felt a little like Forest Gump been followed while running.

Tissington Hall grounds

  Once through Tissington you're on the cycle path and you can switch your brain off for the next four so five hours. The cycle path was dull but pleasant, not tarmac thank God but my feet still began to feel it after a while. The path is also very slight  up hill the entire way, not enough to get you out of breath but enough to tire you over several hours. There was also a complete lack of other walkers. Plenty of cyclists whizzed past, most with the appearance of holiday goers rather then commuters. All bikese were on hybrids or mountain bikes.

Tissington Trail

  It didn't take too long till I was past Biggin, three or so hours from where I settled last night. Further on I took a break at a small side shop and cycle hire building in the hamlet Parsley. Since I desperately needed to take money out I had only a can of coke, but took the chance to sit and change into my sandals. Then I was back up and walking. The path from here only has half a dozen more miles till the end of the trail and there were few bikes. People must rent from the shop and go south where the path extends for miles longer.
  I climbed off the path early in search for a cash point, by this point I had only a few quid and since most campsites only took cash I was worried. As it turns out the little symbols on the map I took to be petrol stations were in fact a pint glass symbolising pubs. No cash machine anywhere. Buxton was only another five or so miles away and I considered carrying on but after checking on the possible campsites I found none under £15 which seemed ridiculous. A lot of sites have a standard charge for two adults and a tent but nothing on the list for a single hiker without a car. Pomeroy campsite however was only £5 so I phoned from its doorstep to check they took card. A kind man said they did and I could pay in the morning before I left.

  It was a nice campsite with huge and expensive looking showers obviously build recently, underfloor heating and a dozen sinks. After a shower I was upset to find there was also had a bath, something I'd not have missed if I'd known.