This is my second time on the Pennine Way I find myself comparing the experiences closely. Today, two years ago, I only got through today by finding a really exciting Dick Francis. The guide suggests this stretch as a doddle but there are a few steep steep areas and areas of boggy ground. Moreover a lot of today is through logging areas and extremely dull.
I was set to go by eight and began by heading north out of town. The lane up White Hill was heralded by a dog's bark but as the wall rose and I fell out of view the dog lost interest. From the farm I crossed a series of fields, passed bunches of trees and onto open moor land and School Crag. GPS led me astray again, and instead of trusting the well trodden path I headed across land. Even when I was directly on top of the green digital line the more I was actually stood on lay untouched by boots of any kind. I ate a lot of Pringles in this field.
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| Padon Hill |
Once I was passed Hareshaw House things got simpler, and although I was nervous of the cows I reached the B6320 untrampled. A long procession of bicycles whizzed path, as well as support cars. I ducked through a gap and wondered up to Grouse Butts. I've no idea how I worked this route out on paper maps, having relied solely on my phone I felt blind without its help. Whitley Pike is somewhat unremarklable and another concern was pressing me forward. I really needed the loo.
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| Whitley Pike |
On the way up Brownrigg Head I met another Pennine Way hiker, a girl walking alone. and just at the top of the hill I met yet another sole female hiker. I love talking to them, the conversation is so different to when I talk to male actors. There is no comparison of mileage, or competitiveness, just compliments and commiserations. I warned them about the slabs before Hadrian's Wall and we parted ways.
I reached Byrness Border Campsite at half three. The lady couldn't find a reference to my walk in her booking sheet but trusted me and allowed me to keep my free pitch. She was lovely and introduced me to their pet donkeys. Since the sun was still up and bright I hand washed an outfit, underwear and a few socks before hanging them out to dry on the barbed wire behind my tent. On the way to the showers I saw a couple hike in with a dog, both carrying rucksacks. Finally some End to End hikers!! I spent a very enjoyable evening talking to them. Both retired and experienced hikers, walking it to raise funds for guide dog training.
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