Day 45- Garrigill to Haltwhistle 16 Miles

   Today's walk was a pleasant change of pace from yesterday's trial. Instead of sticking strictly to the Pennine Way, through Slaggyford and over Hartlayburn Common to Greenhead, I joined the South Tynedale Railway trail at Alston and struck to it for the rest of the day. This meant flat walking and clear tracks, and the lack of navigation would allow me to tune out completely.   

River South Tyne before Alston

  The first stretch of today is along the banks of River South Tyne for five miles although it feels longer. The path switches sides and meanders through farm land and through styles and fences galore. Since I'd had no food for breakfast I reached it hungry and in need of a sugar fix. I ended up in the same cafe I'd gone to on my last Pennine Way jaunt and it didn't impress me any more than it had last time. That said I left with my hunger abated and wondered round town. First stop was to the outdoor shop to procure another backpack cover, I also bought a pair of glove liners to help keep my hands warm on cold nights.

  A few shops later my backpack was heavy again but I had enough food for a couple of days and felt a little less stressed. The beginning of the South Tynedale Railway walk goes along a tourist attraction with working stream engines pulling carriages back and fourth. The path is stoned with the same stones as the tracks and made for uncomfortable walking. I hoped it would change at some point to flat dirt and give my souls a rest. 

  After a couple of miles and a few quaint stations I past a digger and the path dissolved into an overgrown trench whose flatness was the only indication that a train track was ever there. This line was constructed during the C19th to transport lead, coal and limestone from the Alston mine fields to Halwhistle and then east towards Newcastle. It was also vital to the communities isolated in rural parts of England during the winter months. wit the whole line been shut in 1976 the path and the Lambley Viaduct slowly fell to pieces. It was only in 1995 that the Lambley Viaduct was restored and reopened. It's the highlight of the day, tall and elegant it's everything you associate with the romance of the railway and walking over it you're treated with 17 metre high views of the river and land below.  The track continues straight and true, once in a while a crumbling station is visible but mostly it's just a pretty path between small towns.

 

   Although only 16 or so miles I was happy to reach camp and pitch at Haltwhistle Camping and Caravanning Club Site. The campsite was a lovely one and I found Master and Commander in their second hand bookshelf. Buying it, and some rice and chocolate, I settled in. They placed all the tents close together but that was my only complaint and while my neighbors snore was quite impressive my earphones preserved my sleep.

Haltwhistle Camping and Caravanning Club Site