P.W. Day8- Hawes to Tan Hill 16.5miles

   As I headed out of town I spotted another hiker marching north towards the hills. I never saw him again but he was going at such a speed, with his tiny backpack, that I never stood a chance. Pity he had very pretty legs.

Hawes fading behind me

 The first section his through Hardraw, a very pretty village with its own campsite, tea room and inn. Then up a steep enclosed path into the moors. This is a solid 715 meter climb over 5 mile to the top of the Great Shunner Fell. That said on a sunny day you have fantastic views to the east of Buttertubs Pass road and to the west the stepped peaks of the northern dales. However, today was not a sunny day and the rain and the winds descended blowing savagely from my left. A few other shrouded figures stumbled past but it was pretty deserted with Hawes fading dramaically into the mists behind as the rains swept past.

Clouds sweeping over the Great Shunner Fell

   After you finally Reach the Great Shunner Fell Shelter its all down hill until you reach Thwaite and a chance to stop for lunch. My choice was Kearton Country Hotel and Tea Room where I bought a bacon bun, a drink and visited the toilet. Half the time these stops are based around the lavatory more than food or drinks needs.Then is through farm fields, past some baby cows and up back into  the fields. The path here is mossy, springy under foot as you follow the valley and river Swale all the way into Keld. This is where I planned to stay but I still had some energy so crossing the river began yet another climb. The terrain here is pretty level but damp, crossing gates here and there as well as streams using small makeshift planks. Its a long climb to Tan Hill but the weather was holding and the knowledge that this last four miles was voluntary gave me a boost.

Climb to Tann Hill

  Tan Hill offers a pound a night camping behind the pub as well as cups of tea and a wonderfully unique place to spend the night. You'll struggle with the tent pegs and be exposed to serious winds, the toilets are interesting, no showers but for a pound its value for money. Two gypsies came in around five and began to play country/folk music with wonderfully colorful voices and an infectious enthusiasm that set the whole place alight. The tea was good and while the food was expensive a bowl of chips was quite enough and just what I wanted.  I sat extremely contented and emailed my friends as I recharged the ipod and planned the next day. Since I'd walked the extra four or so miles it meant I could forge onwards tomorrow all the way to Middleton-in-Teesdale. Forecast said heavy rain so I was in for a rough one.

View from behind Tan Hill Inn looking over Sleightholme Moor