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Clouds hung low above Loch Lochy just after leaving camp |
After yesterday's low I woke determined to set get today's stretch underway early and get some distance done no matter how hard I'm struggling. There is another wild campsite just a few miles before Fort Augustus which would be my aim today, 20 or so miles ahead. For the first section I'd be
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Clouds clearing over the loch, view from Bunarkaig road |
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Road through Bunarkaig along Loch Lochy |
skirting Loch Lochy, never on the actual shore but dipping up and down through the logging plantations stretching up it's banks. The track is mostly dirt till the end of the loch, there the water narrows near Laggan and path becomes more solid. Then you have the length Loch Oich to walk, this time along a flat and handsome bike track, then another stint along a canal like path all the way to camp. No navigation needed, its another day where I can tune out and let my feet do the work.
Midges were rampant when I woke. I scrambled from my tent and quickly packed up, using the picnic bench to organize my things. As I packed the last of it two canoes were carried into the clearing. Four guys had been camping in hammocks in the woods. They were canoeing the entire Great Glen Way, wild camping along the way. I exchanged a few pleasantries before leaving them lowering their boats and things back into the water.
From camp the path stays on the left of the loch, rising above a houses and along a road through Bunarkaig, and Clunes. Clunes Forest is a nice sheltered walk, the ground covered in moss creating quite intense shades of green. I passed more people along this stretch, two girls making coffee and drying their things, a couple of bikers as well as a runner and her friendly dog. No other long distance hikers.
Laggan Locks seemed to have a campsite beside it, although its not on the map, and I eyed their toilet facilities. As I crossed over the the southern side of the loch I saw the canoeists from earlier today, they seemed surprised to see me again and I felt myself become a little more energized. I had someone to beat.
Great Glen Water park was the first chance for a toilet break and bike to eat. I popped in and ordered food before going straight to the toilets. Its only a slip of a restaurant with paper napkins covering lousy tables but it did the trick. When I rejoined the Way it went along a very straight clean bike trail. Having a sinking bout I played a lot of Beatles and sung along happily enough. The weather was fine and I was making good progress.
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View from the north coast of Loch Lochy |
Cullochy was a lovely section, once again squeezed between a river and the canal. Although I'd walked 20 miles I still felt relatively fresh. I spotter the canoeists one last time stretching their backs and legs looking pretty much done it. No surprise, I think I could row for about ten minutes in the gym before stopping.
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On the top corner of Loch Oich |
Kyltra Lock was lovely, the buildings covered with handing baskets and Loch machinery enclosed in retro style shed. One thing it didn't have was toilets or any real sheltered spot I could squat. I stopped and considered it but when the rain lashed down chose to continue on the last 3 miles to Fort Augustus. The last hour wasn't at all bad just wet. When the rain finally came it poured it down. At Cumberland's Loch Ness Campsite I sat in a shelter for a while waiting for the rain to lessen, when it seemed to get even heavier I gave up and leaving my bag found a pub to dry off in. When the break in the cloud finally came I ran back to pitch. It only took me a few minutes and leaving it wondered into town in search of supplies. I hanged out in the campsite pub that night but wasn't very impressed with the place, stupidly expensive and not worth the trouble, some locals soon came in and proceeded to be so loud that I no longer felt comfortable. I talked to the bikers nearby but soon walked back to camp and washing pulled myself into the sleeping bag.
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Cumberland's Loch Ness Campsite |
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