Day 11- Abbotsham to Barnstable 16 miles

Crossing the Bideford Long Bridge

  This morning was another case of grab all belongings and get indoors. No rain but I wasn't taking the chance. Probably because of this caution I managed to jinx matters and it was one of the sunniest so far. Not hard walking today, mainly flat and mostly on a bike lain stretching between Bideford and Barnstable. I hoped I'd be able to reach camp early and relax a little.

  I woke at 6:30 and was out of camp by 7:30 the sun bright and dazzling over the campsite. Following small lanes I made my way towards Bideford, meeting few cars and I enjoyed a mixture of Beethovens Piano Sonatas and Concertos while maintaining an easy trot. I had plans for a big breakfast once I reached the town center. I found myself entering the town on a school street and it felt strange marching past all the school kids walking into school. Not been much of a morning person this was a reminder of just how much my sleeping habits had changed since beginning this hike.

  Greasy spoons cafe found I ordered myself an English breakfast and finally found signal! I was so sick of my phone been disconnected from the world. It was one thing to wonder through a jungle and face nature's wildest places with no signal and quite another meandering along between towns and be cut off. I checked my messages, most from mother trying to ascertain whether I was still alive. She'd already phoned campsites and confirmed I'd left when I should, and I made a point of ringing to reassure her in person. There were also a few from a lady called Joanna who used to run Wilmslow Wells for Africa (the charity I am walking for). She and her husband Roger were in Devon for a few days and wished to take me out for dinner. She'd been attempting to contact me for a while but I'd gotten none of the messages. Quickly ringing back arrangements were made and I had the promise of lovely company ahead of me for dinner to spur me on.
  Once across the river your on the bike lane and any navigation, if I'd not been using my app the entire time, is finished with. You follow the path for the next 7 or 8 miles until you reach the town and then climb up into the hills for the campsite. While dull walking, after the excitements of the coastal path, my legs welcomed the relief. My feet however soon took over the complaining. I was wearing my sandals again, as the boots were still wet and on my backpack, and with nothing but flat concrete underfoot my soles were getting a pounding. At one point I tried putting the insoles of my shoes in the sandals but they slid about and were no good. The only thing which helped was to start a new audio book, another Lee Child novel, and allow myself to be swept up in the narrative. Lee Child books are a very slightly more gritty American James Bond style novels, a lot more violent but equally unrealistic. The books were well read but nothing to write home, just good empty entertainment.

Slow Worm Sunbathing on the path

  At Barnstable I found a post office, posted home my guide book for the coastal path and made my way up to the campsite. It was the only climb I was required to do all day and while steep the campsite was a nice reward and I had plenty of time to settle in and wash before Joanna and Roger arrived.
  They drove in at 630 and whisked me away to a local pub a few miles down the road. Barnstable is not a wealthy town and it was reflected in the pub but the service was pleasant and the food was good. Plus I got to know two lovely people, and talk all night which is something there's been very little of the last week. Roger probably had more tales of hiking than I did, his old job seeming to have thought up wonderful challenges for them to overcome. From what Roger said Joanna was a key part in running Wilmslow Wells for Africa for 13 years, which is no mean feat, and although she modestly refuted how big a part she played the success of the charity must owe a lot to her hard work. Wilmslow Wells for Africa seems to have a lovely family of people who give so much to it, its the first time I've played an active role in a charity and I feel very fortunate to have picked this one.
  I was dropped off at 9, full to bursting and sleepy. Wishing them farewell and crawling back in my tent to sleep. Tomorrow was going to be a tough one and I was eager to, now that I'd been well fed, to be well rested as well.

Joanna and Me at Brightly Campsite after the meal

Gear Review - Ode to my Tent- Black Wolf Mantis I

    What to do when you find you're not in the mood to write, run or in general do something actually productive? Make a film about my tent and how much I love it. Here is the results, accompanied my Bonzo Dog Doo Dah Band's song 'Tent'- which I have a horrible suspicion is referring to a different type of tent than my own. Either way it makes me smile and has a good beat.

  Here is my review of the Blackwolf's 'Mantis I' tent I've been using the last three years to walk over 2000 miles through Australia and Britain. I might be far from an expert in my field but I can say that this review comes from a thorough testing.

Tent in the middle of the Australian Outback, along the Sunshine Hinterland 2012

The Lizard, Cornwall, England 2013

RRP $269.00

Sleeps: 1
Dimensions: 255 x 220 x 80cm
Weight: 1.9kg
Floor: Polyester 5000 PU coating
Fly: Ripstop polyester 3000mm water column
Poles: (2) 8.5mm premium T6 alloy 

Features:

• 2-pole tapered rectangular design
• Spacious & lightweight
• Dual side entry
• Dual side vestibules
• Gear hammock
• Head & foot vents
• 4 guy rope points
• Ring ‘n’ pin colour-coded flexi poles
• Heat taped seams
• Waterproofpacked size 40cm x Φ15 cm  

Bought: November 2012

Miles Covered: 2000 Miles
Height: 5 foot 5 

Tan Hill, Along the Pennine Way, England 2013

I bought this as my first hiking tent while I was in Australia - since then its sheltered me along the Sunshine Hinterland Great walk (four night- 60 odd kms), Great Ocean Road (six days 100kms), Six Foot Track (3 days 40 odd kms) and god knows how many weekend exertions- one during floods. Now I'm back from Australia it has braved the considerably less mild weather of rainy England where I've walked the Pennine Way, a 450 plus kilometer hike over 15 days along the spine of England into Scotland. This summer I used it for a ten week expedition from Land's End to John o'Groats on foot covering 1200 miles (1940 Km) in one of the wettest summers for years. I've bought a few sets of new tent pegs but other than that it is barely marked. It has been put up and taken down every day; stuffed wet back into the rucksack; rolled quickly and badly in winds; all in all this tent has been treated quite roughly. The fact that it's in such good order is a testament to just how high quality this tent is. Other basic points- the porch space is very spacious, ventilation is great and although condensation collects on the inside of the tent the material dries very quickly. It is strong in high winds, no problems with the zips, packs up into a great size, and has WONDERFUL tent poles that seem to magnetically connect together. They can be flicked into place with your wrist in a matter of seconds. No sign of the string joining the tent poles snapping. Its quick to assemble if slightly tricky to put up in rain, not high enough to sit up in but material does give a little so that you can move around easily. Be aware that I am a medium to short woman and a tall man might find this tent somewhat short: my feet do touch the roof but that's because I like plenty of space above my head. This does mean that if there is a lot of condensation, and your feet touch the tent that your sleeping bag can get a little damp over a cold night.
  As I stated earlier this is my first hiking tent so I'm no expert but I can say its been superb every time I've put it up. Black Wolf Mantis I is durable and has survived me which is something that few other things have managed.  When my friend asked to borrow it I felt she'd asked for my child. I have absolutely no qualms in recommending this tent, its worth every penny been charged. The only down side is that its made by an Australian company and postage costs a bomb over the asking price. 

Devil's Kitchen Campsite along the Great Ocean Walk, Victoria 2013

Flaxton Camp Ground, Queensland

Bridge of Orchy, Land's End to John o'Groats, Scotland 2015

Day 3 of 3 Crowden to Hadfield

Short walk today, campsite to the Didsbury Intake's disused quarry, then back down to the reservoir and along the path to Had field. It's a day with a stiff climb over the first mile and then easy walking with pretty views.

  The night was cold and I woke several times. In the end I slept in to enjoy the final warmth of the morning. Not eating breakfast I packed up and headed out determined to find a pretty view from which to eat.

View up in the quarry while having lunch

View from the reservoir back to the quarry

The climb was hard but the views were great from the top and the path along the quarry pretty. It's on this path that I stopped and cooked myself some cuscus. It's the first time I'd done this in such a deliberate manner. I should have taken my shoes off and let them breath but worried about time didn't bother. My soles had began to hurt like on the Pennine way, the third day seems to be the painful one.
  The walk along the reservoir is flat and easy although I felt quite tired at this point and was glad to reach the train station and head home for a bath.
  Next hike is the big one!

Preparing for a Longer Walk

 

Walk?  End to End - Lands End to John o'Groats 

When?                                              May- August

Projected days?                                 80 odd days 

Weight of Pack (estimate)?   17 kilos/ 35 pounds

Fitness

  The walk will, obviously, only be enjoyed if my body is up for the challenge. At present it is not. But I still have two months and have just secured the kind sponsorship of Wilmslow Leisure Center which will allow me access to their gym and swimming pool. I live in beautiful Cheshire, near the Pennines and beauties like Lyme Park and Styal woods. Plenty of places to explore and get my feet ready for 10 hours a day walking. ON the Pennine Way the first five days were hell on my souls, I don't want to do that again.
  What do I need to do?

1. One long walk a week, with two or so lighter ones
2. Gym 3 times a weeks with hard work outs focusing on key muscle groups (pretend here that I have a clue what that means.)
3. Eat healthier and drink a lot of water so the fitness isn't wrecked by gluttony 

  Richard at Wilmslow Leisure Center is sorting out my pass and arranging some free fitness instruction which will make a big difference. If I take proper advantage of their help there is still enough time to get my body in shape.

   I've gone on two walks in the last few weeks with my backpack full and ready to camp. This allows me to strengthen my back and legs with exactly the weight I'll be carrying along the way. The only problem I've struggled with is the cold. On the last walk I layered till I could barely lower my arms but to no avail. I shivered and got down off the moors are quickly as humanly possible. Bring on the Spring!!

Equipment- Sponsorship

 As I've walked in the past I have all the bare necessities sorted but I have been working hard to get sponsorship and upgrade as much as I can before the start. I've never walked such a length and any advantage I can get I will do with pleasure. Its my first attempt at getting sponsorship and, so long as you willing to spend a number of hours sending emails, has been very successful. So far the companies who have agreed to help me are:

View Ranger  

http://www.viewranger.com/en-gb

  View Ranger have provided me with the maps for the entire route saving me a hell of a lot of money and, even more importantly, weight. It can all be read and followed on my phone, and recorded as I walk along. I can also add photos along the way so those sponsoring me can follow my progress. It also, if you map readings on the weaker side, can use GPS to tell you exactly where you are. You can plan your route and it will tell you both the miles and elevation. This is brilliant, and the only weight it will cost me is a external battery to make sure my phone doesn't die on me half way through a day.

Berghaus

  Berghaus were kind enough to provide me with a Women's Scafell Down Jacket. I'd hoped to provide them with some stunning photos but after this shot it rained the rest of the walk and the lovely jacket was covered my another Berghaus coat to protect me from the rain. Hopefully later this week I'll be able to take a few more.  I will review it in more detail after my next walk. Here are its specifications:

• HydroDown technology: Innovative water repellent treatment absorbs 75% less water than regular Down; dries 50% faster than regular Down; will still keep you warm when wet
• Two concealed hand warmer pockets zipped
• Stretch bound cuffs

Deuter    

 Deuter has promised me a Deuter Aircontact 60+ 10 SL and I can't wait to try it out. The photo are from Australia and my smaller backpack. I actually sent these to the sponsorship department in a bid to win their support. Considering I'm currently using a 60 Liter Black backpack bought from a second hand shop for a tenner my excitement is understandable. Here are the specifications of my future baby:

• New front, quick access opening
• energy saving comfort due to the anatomically shaped and pivoting Vari Flex hip fins, which follow your every move precise load control due to compression straps on hip fins
• Pull-Forward hip belt buckle, easy to fasten even when heavily laden
• Stable multi-chamber aluminium X-frame transfers load to the hip belt
• ergonomically shaped head moulding and positionable lid pocket with compression strap allow freedom of head movement
• Three side compression straps in 60+10, 65+10 & 75+10
• Hydration system compatible side bellows pockets
• Hip belt zipped pocket
• Lid pocket
• Two daisy chains
• Top lid attachment rings
• Ice axe and hiking pole loop
• Lower side pockets for tent poles
• Double-layered base
• Integrated detachable rain cover
• Zipped map pockets on the side

   Will report back once I have it and have tested it. 

What I'm still fishing for:

  I am still emailing for a few items of equipment, one been a good lightweight warm sleeping back, possibly synthetic down. Second being a pair of hiking shoes and sandals. Wouldn't say no to a replacement tent either. But if these items are the only things I get then I'll consider myself very fortunate.

Organization- Accommodation Sponsorship

  I've spent several weeks planning my route and contacting campsites. Heres another area where you can apply for sponsorship. If the walk is for a charity, and is impressive enough, then a lot of kind souls are willing to allow you to camp for free. Considering that some of the campsites along the south west coastal path cost 10 or 12 pounds a person this is quite a gift. So far the kind souls providing me a free pitch are: 

1. Trevedra Farm Caravan and Camping Site
2. Trevalgan Touring Park  
3. Trewiston Farm Caravan Park
4. Potseath Camping 
5. Loveland Farm
6. Stoke Barton Farm
7. Cerenety Eco Campsite
8. Westacott Farm 
9. The Fairways Holiday Park  
10. Medip Camp
11. Cheddar Campsite
12. Beeches Farm Campsite
13. Wye  Tipi Camping  
14. Walton Court  
15. Brook Farm Cottage and Camp Site  
16. Newhaven Nr Buxton  
17. Low Way Farm  
18. Grandie Caravan Park
19. Border Forest Caravan Park
20. Forest view inn walkers 
21. Beinglas Farm Campsite   
22. Bunchrew Caravan Park 

   I WILL REVIEW AS I PASS THROUGH BUT FOR NOW LET ME SAY THANK YOU!  
 

Choosing and Setting up a Charity

  Choosing a charity took me quite some time. I wanted to support something which helped women in developing countries receive an education. After a bit of research I found Wilmslow Wells for Africa. They raise funds to build wells in some of the most desolate parts of Africa. In these villages women are ofter forced to walk over a mile to reach a water supply. Water borne diseases kill many and cause illness, but without any other choice there is little these people can do. A well with clean water can change so much. Now the women and children don't have to spend two hours retrieving water they can work on small businesses (such as making cheeses from their goats), their children can be sent to school and illness decreases. It doesn't work to educate women directly but it provides an environment where the chances of them leading a better life are dramatically increased. Hopefully this walk can be used to spread the word about their good work and raise enough funds to make a difference to their lives. 95 % off money donated to this charity is spend in Africa. More information can be found on their website: http://www.wilmslowwells.org/

TO DONATE

 https://www.givey.com/girlgoeshiking

Mental Preperations

  The idea of walking three months straight alone is quite daunting, its a whole term and university. I've read several guides on the subject but they are working to give you information and not an idea of what it'll be like. Your also dealing with a very subjective topic. I read two books so far, one about a hiker and the other about cycling it:

When I Walk, I Bounce: Walking from Land's End to John o'Groats

"Convinced that walking from Land's End to John o'Groats will be a pleasant way to spend the summer, Mark Moxon soon discovers that there's a lot more to crossing Britain than simply putting one foot in front of the other. In this entertaining and frequently hilarious book, Mark takes us on a journey not only of 1111 miles, but of the highs and lows of long-distance walking."

  A well written and humorous account of the walk, easy to read although I confess I did skip about a bit to which ever section I was researching. Since I am not walking this particular route some bits I ignored. I also lover the moors and hate any type of road walking, he is the opposite way inclined and therefore a lot of the moaning in sections I ignored. He hated the Pennine Way while I love it.
  Worth a read.


Free Country: A Penniless Adventure the Length of Britain

 
" The plan is simple. George and Ben have three weeks to cycle 1000 miles from the bottom of England to the top of Scotland. There is just one small problem… they have no bikes, no clothes, no food and no money. Setting off in just a pair of Union Jack boxer shorts, they attempt to rely on the generosity of the British public for everything from food to accommodation, clothes to shoes, and bikes to beer.

During the most hilarious adventure, George and Ben encounter some of Great Britain's most eccentric and extraordinary characters and find themselves in the most ridiculous situations. Free Country is guaranteed to make you laugh (you may even shed a tear). It will restore your faith in humanity and leave you with a big smile on your face and a warm feeling inside"



   A great read but you wouldn't catch me dead trying it. I feel unprepared as it is and I have every single piece of gear needed. I am to receive free accommodation but obtained through emails not face to face appeals. Still is gives you courage that is they can do it then surely you, with everything you might need, can. Even if your walking it like me its worth a read.

Gear Review - Scarpa Ranger II ActTX Womens Walking Boots

 Bought - May 2013 

Distance - 300 Miles

 Price - 160.00

  Shoe Size - 7 

PROS

  As advertised they are waterproof and insulating, protecting you from the path with impressively thick and hard soles. These boots are hard and built to last. They look like they've been taken a strolls over the fields not 300 miles over moor land, through marshlands and gravel lanes and roads. Scarpa boots are designed to survive pretty much everything. The only problem is my feet might not survive them over the course of another walk.



 CONS

    I bought these in preparation for the Pennine Way. They are heavy boots, the ankles cushioned and very well padded fixing your foot in place. They advertise that "Auto-fit foam inserts in heel area provide perfect foot hold and increased comfort" and for the first twenty miles this is fine, and while they aren't as cushy as they appear in the shop they seem fit for the job. By the fortieth mile however things go down hill. First its important to note that I have wide feet and not dainty skinny ankles. I suspect shoes are like a kiss and its not about how skilled one person is but how they fit together. These boots and I were never meant to be. For the entire Pennine Way, 250 Miles, they game me hell blistered my left heel and compressed it so that it could hardly carry any weight. I only carried on my heavily plastering it and wearing a supportive bandage. I assumed I'd just not broken them in enough, that my feet had just not hardened to the trail, but since then I've come to realize that it wasn't me it what the boots. On the Cotswold Way, a 100 mile walk, they'd given me five blisters on one foot and three on the other by the second day, and soon after my heel began to hurt for the first time since the Pennines. I've concluded that the constraints around the heel compressed my ankle too much, as my feet were simply too wide. Even if they did fit well its also worth noting just how heavy these boots are, and once they're wet they drag.

Upper Material:	Leather
Waterproof:	Yes
Waterproof Technology:	GORE-TEX®
Height:	Boot Cut
Insole:	Viscoflex Activ fit insole with memory foam
Midsole:	Hi-Flex
Sole Type:	Vibram®
Stiffness:	Soft, for low level walks on defined trials
Lacing Type:	Standard Lace Up
Boot Grade:	B0 - not suitable for crampons
Ideal Crampon Rating:	Not Crampon Compatible

 
CONCLUSION

   I wouldn't buy another Scarpa boot. In fact I took quite a lot of pleasure in selling them on ebay and using the money to buy myself a forty pound pair of Trespass walking boots. These Trespass boots are light, waterproof and an instant match. I took them on a thirty mile hike and didn't get a single blister. I hated how heavy Scarpa boots were, hated putting them on in the morning and there are simply not enough plasters in the world to make them comfortable.

Gear Review - Black Diamond Trail Women's Trekking Poles - Pair

Last day on the Pennine Way, England, during a 28 Mile stint 2013

Bought: November 2012

Miles Covered: 500+ Miles
My height: 5 foot 5  

My Weight : 15 Stone + backpack

• 3-section poles provide patented FlickLock adjustability and solid, slip-free security
• Simply flick the lock open, set the length and flick the lock closed—a quick, tight, and easily accomplished task, even with gloved hands
• Soft, dual-density foam grips and extensions have padded wrist straps for security
• Poles extend from 23 to 49 in.
• The Black Diamond Trail trekking poles include low profile baskets for general use and powder baskets for use in the snow

 I found the straps annoying so chopped them off in a fit of ultra-lite hiking verve. Apart from that there's nothing negative to say about them, they support my weight reliably and have never let me down. I'm quite a heavy girl, especially while carrying a backpack and not once did the extensions collapse on themselves and I've barely walked a mile without their help. On a number of occasions I've nearly fallen and placed all my weight on one of them, they bent slightly but held. The handles allow you to grip securely and in varied grips while the textured foam handles prevent you from slipping from sweat.The heights are easily adjustable and show no sign of failing, and make it easy to pack them away once they've been used.There is no shock absorption but I've never felt jarred by them, perhaps this would not be the case if I were walking a long distance on tarmac or concrete.
   I bought these poles because a shop keeper had told me they'd be needed in the Blue Mountains. Before I used them I suspected they were either for the wimpy of elderly but not strong hikers such as I'd be...eventually. Within half an hour of been dropped off on Morton Island I'd changed my mind and relied on them on every hike since in England and Australia. They are essential when crossing difficult or slippy land, they are also very useful in relieving you of some of the weight of the rucksack. They can pull you up a hill and assist when your trying to descend one safely. More that that, when your in Australia or anywhere else that's inhabited with poisonous snakes, they provide a barrier and protected obstruction which might make all the difference on either side of your legs.As for picking up a stick from the bush instead...why would you when both poles together weight only 1oz and can be packed away when not needed?

Descending down into the valley in the Blue Mountains 2013

Specification	Description
Best use	Hiking
Shaft material	Aluminum
Grip material	Foam
Adjustable	Yes
Maximum length (in.)	49 inches
Minimum length (in.)	23 inches
Maximum length (cm)	125 centimeters
Minimum length (cm)	59 centimeters
Locking mechanism	External lever lock
Shock absorbing	No
Camera mount	No
Weight per pair	1 lb. 1 oz.
Gender	Women's

Crossing a shallow creeks in the Australian bush 2012

 

Gear Review - The Jetboil Zip Cooking System

• Drink-through lid with pour spout & strainer
• Bottom cover doubles as a measuring cup and bowl
• Compatible with all Jetboil accessories
• Weight: 12oz (345g)
• Volume: 27oz (0.8 litre)
• Boil Time for 16oz (0.5 litre) = 2 minutes, 30 seconds (avg over life of Jetpower canister)
• Water Boiled: 12 Litres per 100g Jetpower canister
• Dimensions: 4.1” x 6.5” (104mm x 165mm)

Bought : October 2013 

Cost : £71.95

Meals cooked : 100+   

 PROS

 I've just finished reading 'Wild, From Lost to Found on the Pacific Crest Trail' by Cheryl Strayed and while  I appreciate that it was written about equipment in 1995, descriptions of her stove make me appreciate just how clever this device is. I've so far used it in the monsoon season of Australia, in heavy rain, open moor land, sandy and windy beaches as well as the occasional backyard gardens. It has never faltered, possibly because in its design and manufacture its wonderful simple with very few parts that might go wrong. The materials are light and durable, and easily packed away. The insulation Cargo Cozy on the main cup means that the water heats quickly, and stays warm for a while after which means you use very little fuel. Also allows you to handle it without scorching yourself. On my week long hikes where I cooked at least twice a day I'd end with plenty of fuel left in my 100G cans.  I generally ate straight from the main cup, using the measuring cup to drink out of. When I pack things away they all fit together and I slip the matches or lighter between the heating coils at the bottom, trapping them in with the measuring cup. It means my entire cooking system can fit into the side pocket of your bag weighing only 12 oz, I don't understand why people would bring much else if only cooking for yourself.
  While your restricted to single pan meals there is some leave-way since it brings the water to boil so quickly. I was able to heat water for instant mash which I made in the measuring cup before heating the sauce and pouring it on top. Since the whole operation was completed in ten minutes nothing was too cool by the time I got to eat it.

 CONS

I stopped bringing the locking pot support very quickly as it made packing things away hard and served absalutely no use unless you're bringing another pot, which in turn makes the whole system pointless. That said is allows you to adapt the jet boil to accomodate more if you go on a trip with friends. It is simple enough to leave behind and while it hasn't served me any use at all its cetrainly not ruined the devide.
  The ground stabaliser is also a little tricky and unreliably, which is important when you're cooking in the middle of the dry season in Australia and bush fired are a real danger. Again I must temper my criticism since the twice the stove fell it was at least in equal measure my own stupidity and clumsiness. 
  I remember the first time I used it I found the temperature knob very sensitive and hard to use. Since the cup it insulated its hard to have the hob low enough that the contents is allowed to stew. I found I needed to turn it off once in a while to prevent it overflowing, and then you need unscrew the pan to relight it. When it did occasionally overflow its not simply a pan covered in muck but also the insulating material, and if you have a limited water supply (as in parts of Australia) you want stuff to be as easily washable as possible. The heating system, on the subject of cleaning, is also very tricky. Moreover the lid is black and while it may increase cooking speed makes it impossible to monitor any approaching overflows. I see on their website that they have made the lids see through now which would mediate this problem considerably.

Conclusion

Cooking lunch in the Australian Bush

  I've ended up listing quite a lot of faults but they are all with the accessories, and on the whole the Jet Boil is well worth the money. Its durable and reliable. I don't cook elaborate meals on a trail, in fact I limit myself to ten minutes cooking time, often simply mixing cuscus and stock or soup powder and instant mash. What I need is something to heat water quickly, use only a little fuel and provide me with hot chocolate after. For these uses Jet Boil is wonderful and after using it the idea of bringing pans and plates seems ridiculous. I guess the best test of a product is would you be willing to spend the same again on the product after yours breaks. I most definitely would. 

P.W. Day 10- Dufton to Garrigill 16miles

  Dufton to Garrigill is one of the hardest days of the entire walk and one I'd been dreading from the start and hoping, if I only had one day of sun, that it would be clear and visible throughout. You begin the day with a hard climb up to Cross Fell 893 meters in height, only to dip down and rise again so that you're faced with a mighty 1100 meters ascent over the day. Once you are at the top there's a long and knee splitting trudge down the well named 'Corpse Road'. All this is doable in good weather, but thats not what I faced. I faced two meters of visibility,  and what I found out later were fifty mile winds.
  I woke to rain, and with that excuse rolled over a slept till half eight, wondering down to the post office for a full English. I've found that eating a lot shamelessly can only be accomplished if you have a backpack for an excuse. The weather had cleared a bit and I realised I needed to get going and try to get to the summit before the bad weather began. The decent is along a Miners Road and easier to follow while the section between the two peaks has no path and you either need to use compass bearings or rely on visibility. This would be the biggest test to my navigational skill of the entire hike.
  I struggled walking up the first stretch along Narrow Hedged Lane, the path is steep and I found myself getting either too hot and having to stop to delayer, or finding I was developing a blister and having to stop to plaster myself, and so on and so on. It took me a long time to find my rhythm.

The cartoony shapes rolling hills rising out of Dufton

    Rising higher and higher I could see the weather also closing in on the peak and squared my shoulders to what would be bearing down on me. It wasn't long before my entire concentration was fixed on the path and not leaving it while it lasted.

Mists sweeping in over the plain

    A stint along the road was a blessed relief, but a short lived one. The path remains pretty visible until it splits in two around the radar tracking station. Here I climbed to early and was forced to backtrack. Once in a while slabs give a relief to the confusion. From this point you are suppose to be able to see the 'Cow Green Reservoir' but visibility was getting worse.  I found Little Dun Fell and fell over as I reached the shelter. The wind was so strong, and I was leaning so much into it, that as the shelter blocked it I was suddenly overcompensating and on my face. The rain had been falling for a while now and I could only rest a little time in the damp before I was getting cold. This is only a collapsing wall of stones but it is a welcome relief and a good guidance point to navigate from.
  I followed the compass from here, decending in as straight a line as I could but continually been forced to divert around marshes or clunks of rocks. It should have been no more than a ten minute trot but an hour later and I was beginning to get a little worried and a lot wetter than I'd like. When I reached a series of pikes in the earth I pause and once more examined my map. No avail since I couldn't see anything around me. I decided that the best thing I could do is simple head up hill since there was only one clear peak in the region and I must have ended up east of the correct route. Dozens of lightly trodden tracks starting and disapearing suggested others had had similar problems.   Cross Fell finally appeared and gasping with relief I lent forwards against the gale and pushed on. Again I tried to follow the compass as loyally as I could, attempting to scramble down the summit but was then forced to stop near the top. The compass was trying to lead me down a cascade of jaggered rocks. I'd nearly fallen twice and couldn't face the next hundred meters of the same so turning sideways I made my way to the edge of the rocky side and skirted until I found solid ground again. A path instantly became visible and I began the decent down Longman Hill.
  I popped into Greg's Hut as I passed to see what it looked like inside. It seemed quite homely and if there had been a lock on the door I'd have even felt safe but preferred my cosy tent. After a hundred or so meters descent the wind eased and as I past the hut the fog lifted. The rain continued.
  Once or twice on the decent I considered setting up camp but the rain was too sever and I really wanted something warm to eat. The water in my shoes had caused so much suction that my feet were squelching with every step which at least eased them a little from the stone path.
  When I reached the small village of Garrigill it was dusk and the rain and increased to a torrent. I reached the town hall and walking behind found where I could camp. Deciding I'd rather sit in the rain for a hour or so than sleep in a wet tent all night I kept everything packed up and waited for a break in the weather. It took little over an hour but my clothes and shelter stayed dry. I hung the rest in the porch and shoved my soaked boots with toilet role under the lavatory sink inside. I doubted a town this size would have too many chavs hang out in the public toilets.
  The village pub is lovely but does not accept cards, and nor does anywhere else but the B&B/ post office which was shut. My plans for a well earned feast were downsized to soup and a coup of tea, however this was quite sufficient and I left feeling warmed up and ready for bed. Tomorrow should be a doddle compared to today's stretch.