Day 8- Tintagel to Bude 21 miles

  Today I was in for a slog. 21 miles along the coastline and, as it turned out, 1500 metres climbed and a further 1570 metres lost. On the other hand the weather was fine and I'd done little but lie around the day before.

Looking back at Tintagel

   I set out later than normal, slow to start and not leaving camp till about eight. Once back on the trail however I began to it. Lying around in camp, yesterday, tired after only four hours I'd began to doubt by own abilities but on the move I felt in control and invigorated. That is until I climbed out my third cove. Today, tomorrow and the next are meant to be the most challenging of the entire southwest coastal path and I can see why.

Just one of many climbs straight up

  At Boscastle I stopped for breakfast (beans of toast) and met my first End to End companion. A gentleman in his fifties who'd completed the walk three times already. His pack was incredibly lighter than mine but when I found he slept in a 1 season sleeping back I decided my methods were better. I'm feeling the chill in my 4 season sleeping back which was made for -5°.
  We parted from the café, I following the coastal path a little longer and him heading inland for the next few miles. Soon I also left the coast, finding a really pleasant route through valleys and woods alongside the official route. Having walked the Pennine Way (supposedly the hardest trail in England)  I thought I'd cope well with the coastal path but there no comparison. The coastal path is sadistic and draining. I'm sure I'll look back fondly but not yet. Any person with that many highs and lows would be on medication.

  Tamp's Woods heading to Million were particularly pretty and been away from the beaten track I felt I was seeing something special that most tourists would have missed. Then back to the coast path for a short spell, a lovely view from Penhalt Cliff before the last stretch to Bude along the Canals. My legs by this point had had it, the calfs complaining at every step. Lucky Cerenety Campsite was on my side of town and reaching it I collapsed.

Penhalt Cliff

  Cerenety Campsite is a gem of a place, eco friendly and obviously a work of passion and love. The grass might not be the fine well groomed affair of mainstream campsite but who cares? The toilet walls are painted with varied images, there's a play area in one corner and the whole place is teaming with life and animals. Moreover they supported the walk by offering me this experience for free.

Toilet doors